July 2025
New Zealand on the Edges of Ease
Bacco’s Wine Club
July 2025
s summer stretches into full bloom—meals moving outdoors, shoes kicked off, time softening at the edges—we find ourselves reaching for wines that reflect that rhythm. Wines that don’t posture, that don’t require ceremony, but still manage to feel like something special.
This season’s selections come from Unkel and Luta—two expressions of the same thoughtful, unfussy philosophy. Winemaker Rob Burley works with organic fruit in New Zealand’s Upper Moutere Hills, farming gently and intervening rarely. His wines don’t shout. They lean in.
They’re generous, a little unruly, and shaped by trust—in the land, in the fruit, and in the process.
Luta
‘Zephyr’
Chardonnay
Upper Moutere,
Nelson,
New Zealand
Unfiltered, Unfined, Vegan | 12.5% ABV
What it is:
This is Chardonnay for people who’ve sworn it off—bright, subtle, and quietly layered. It opens with green apple and almond blossom, then deepens into stone fruit, biscotti, and a flicker of flint. There's a lightness here that never feels thin—a texture that refreshes without needing to chill your glass to numbness.
Who makes it:
Rob and Kate Burley have been dry-farming 5.5 hectares of vines in the Upper Moutere since 2019. Their approach is slow, organic, and hands-off. “Luta,” drawn from Lutum, the Latin for clay, is a nod to the gravel-laced soils that shape their vines—and their wines.
When to drink it:
Now, and all summer long. It’s the bottle you’ll want chilled and close by when the grill’s on and the sun’s still high.
What to pair it with:
Grilled lemony fish, cold chicken sandwiches, buttered sweet corn, or shade and a breeze.
UNKEL
‘Jurassic Red’ 2023
Upper Moutere,
Nelson,
New Zealand
Pinot Noir, Merlot, Gewürztraminer | Co-fermented, 5–7 days on skins
What it is:
An unconventional blend with plenty of charm. Co-fermenting Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Gewürztraminer isn’t standard practice—but it works. Jurassic Red is juicy, lightly aromatic, and just structured enough to give it shape. It’s bright, chillable, and slightly wild—the kind of red that’s welcome at any table, any time.
Who makes it:
Unkel is Rob Burley’s original project, founded on the idea that wine should be honest, expressive, and deeply drinkable. His wines are unfiltered, unfined, and fermented naturally. They’re not fussy. They’re not trying to impress anyone. And somehow, that’s what makes them memorable.
When to drink it:
Serve it with a light chill at your next beach bonfire, campsite picnic, or casual weeknight dinner.
What to pair it with:
Burgers, grilled mushrooms, salty chips, laughter, music, friends who stay too long.
⸻
Luta
‘Shadows’
Pinot Noir
Upper Moutere,
Nelson,
New Zealand
Unfiltered, Unfined, Vegan | 13.0% ABV
What it is:
The most reflective wine in this set, but still easygoing at heart. Shadow opens with vibrant red fruit—plum, rhubarb, raspberry—balanced by dried herbs and subtle spice from a touch of whole-cluster fermentation. There’s clarity here, and calm. A Pinot that listens before it speaks.
Who makes it:
As with Zephyr, this is Rob and Kate Burley’s work under the Luta label—named for the clay-rich soils that hold both water and memory. They farm organically and trust the fruit to tell the story. And it does.
When to drink it:
Now, or hold a bottle through the fall. It’s as comfortable around the fire pit as it is at the dinner table.
What to pair it with:
Duck, wild mushroom pasta, a deep conversation, or someone who likes to talk wine a little too much.
In Sum
These wines weren’t built for competition or ceremony. They’re built for now—for the spontaneous picnic, the second glass on a slow afternoon, the friends you didn’t plan to see but are glad showed up.